Milk tea, also known as “rucha” in Chinese, holds a significant place in the culinary history of China. It was a staple beverage in the imperial palaces throughout various dynasties, a crucial element in royal banquets, celebrations of the emperor’s long life, ceremonies honoring the empress dowager, entertaining Mongolian dignitaries, Tibetan lamas, foreign envoys, and essential in various imperial rituals and offerings to ancestors.
Among the emperors, Emperor Qianlong stood out as a notable enthusiast of milk tea. He even composed a five-line poem praising the virtues of milk tea, highlighting its preparation with whey, boiling milk, and serving it in jade bowls, creating an elegant and harmonious atmosphere in the imperial court.
Historical Convergence of Tea and Milk:
The consumption of tea has ancient roots, attributed to the legendary figure Shennong, who discovered tea leaves while exploring various herbs. Initially used as an herbal remedy, tea’s pleasant effects on mood were later attributed to caffeine, a revelation brought about much later by scholars like Lu Yu and Eisai.
The earliest recorded use of tea as a culinary ingredient can be found in the “Guangya,” where tea cakes were crushed, boiled in hot water, and seasoned with salt, pepper, ginger, and dried tangerine peel. This early combination of tea and seasoning aimed to provide a delightful caffeine experience.
On the other hand, milk, a beverage prevalent among nomadic cultures, made its way into the central plains as nomadic tribes expanded southward. The rich and nutritious qualities of milk quickly gained popularity in the central plains, becoming a beloved beverage.
Introduction of Milk Tea in Ancient Times:
During the Tang Dynasty, the collision of agrarian and nomadic civilizations, facilitated by the expansion of the Li Tang Dynasty, accelerated the integration of milk and tea. The first recorded individual to indulge in milk tea was Wang Su, a noble of the Southern Dynasties, often considered the “ancestor of milk tea enthusiasts.”
Wang Su, escaping internal turmoil, disguised himself as a monk and sought refuge in the Northern Wei. Initially repulsed by the northern cuisine, Wang Su gradually adapted, inventing the groundbreaking “milk tea” by adding tea leaves to milk. Wang Su fell in love with this new concoction, stating that “Tea is the companion of milk.”
Ancient Milk Tea: Salty Delicacy:
Moving into the Tang Dynasty, historical records detail Emperor Dezong’s son, Emperor Dexing, engaging in afternoon tea. During this period, milk tea evolved into a more complex beverage, with ingredients such as butter and pepper being added. The combination of milk, tea, butter, and pepper created a unique and flavorful concoction.
The ancient milk tea was primarily a salty beverage, as seen in Emperor Dezong’s addition of butter and pepper. The tradition of adding salt and spices to tea continued and is still present in the popular salty milk teas consumed in regions like Mongolia and Xinjiang.
According to historical records in the “Qinding Zongguan Neiwufu Tiaoli,” from emperors to princes, the daily milk supply was measured in the number of cows. Each member of the imperial family had a designated quota of cows, emphasizing the importance of milk in their daily lives. Additionally, the demand for tea leaves in the Forbidden City was substantial, with annual consumption reaching a staggering 13,900 pounds.
To create a premium royal milk tea, the quality of ingredients, meticulous preparation, and the use of high-grade tea utensils were essential. The imperial preference for thousands of pounds of tea leaves annually underscores the deep-seated tradition of consuming milk tea within the Qing Dynasty’s imperial court.
In conclusion, the history of ancient Chinese milk tea is a tale of convergence between agrarian and nomadic cultures, resulting in a unique and cherished beverage. The fusion of tea and milk, often salty in nature, became a culinary delight enjoyed by emperors, nobles, and the masses alike, leaving an indelible mark on China’s rich cultural heritage.
